November 19, 2014, 12:01 pm
Hello All,
New shop I am at is taking delivery of a used Sprint 2000 with a 72" belt. 12' tunnel with 8' in and 8' out.
Can anyone advise what the picked weight will be pulling this thing off a truck? I need to make sure our fork lift can handle it or if we need to rent a bigger one.
THANKS.
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November 20, 2014, 10:33 am
Does anybody have any of the books/ info on the old Precision Vortex dryers that you would be willing to share with a fellow printer? We got a 48" dryer recently and I'm trying to get it going again. Currently, it will get up to about 350 degrees slowly but the temperature will drop to 260ish once we start running shirts down it. Do you know how much gas is required? I was told it was 150,000btu but want to be sure. I tried M&R but was told they don't keep anything on them anymore.
Many Thanks!
Mattie
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November 20, 2014, 9:41 pm
Hello everyone,
I am fairly new to screen printing and I mainly screen print as a hobby.
However, a recent friend of mine involved me into his project. He basically wants to create a replica suit of the Amazing Spider-Man 2 suit.
I did a lot of research and even contacted the company that created the suit and they told me that everything about the suit, including the webbing was done via screen printing. I've got everything down except the webbing...it's too thick and I lack a lot of HD experience.
large.jpgmeo.jpgwebs.jpg
I have tried all the techniques I could think of. I got the best results using the gellusion technique that Kieth Stevens talked about. I used high density and gel gloss and gave it a (2 %) dulling additive but still...did not achieve what I had wanted.
I was wondering if anyone would happen to know a technique used to create this effect or would offer their services. I'm screen printing onto cotton lycra (95 % cotton 5 % spandex)
Thanks.
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November 22, 2014, 8:30 am
is it possible to upgrade my old high rise pallet brackets on my 94 Challenger to the low rise quick change brackets? all these seem to do is snag every small shirt. and pallet leveling is a painstaking process.
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November 24, 2014, 3:23 pm
I am curious as to what others are seeing on their thermal sensors on this dryer and if we're doing things right.
With standard plastisol with a full print, were setting our temperature at 375 degrees with a belt speed of 12.5. As the shirts are coming out, we're seeing temperatures ranging from 230 to 305 as the garments are exiting the dryer.
Should we expect to being temperatures under the proper MFG curing temp at this spot when they exit? Should the garments have lost a little heat at that point and be on the way down? Are we running too cool or the belt too fast?
When we use a handheld unit to check temp a little further into the throat of the dryer (12" or so), we appear to be reaching temp OK so I was just wondering if we should use the temperature sensor at the end of the chamber more as a gauge or should it be the highest temp the garments are reaching at that point?
Heck, if someone wanted to give me some recipe starting points for regular plastisol, that would be even more awesome.
Thank you!
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November 25, 2014, 8:11 am
So I've got a fun Frankenstein experiment for you M&R guys.
Is it possible to change out the print carriage on a Gauntlet-Z series to one like on the Challenger-III or Alpha 8? I'm referring to the ones where the chopper cylinders are further out so that you can keep even squeegee pressure on oversize prints. We're having a tough time on anything over 24 inches.
Is this possible, or will something have to be engineered to be backwards compatible with an older machine?
Serious question though, I'd prefer doing something like this for now rather than buy a whole new press.
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November 26, 2014, 7:47 pm
How to find the right printer?
There're so many printers. How to find the right one?
1. Price
Best price is not the cheapest price. No one would do business without any profit. There is no cheapest price, there will always be a cheaper price.
2. Quality
To check the quality, we need samples. Digital sample can check your book.But, there are some difference between digital samples and offset printing products. But a sample from what printer did before, you will see the color, the binding etc.
3. Service
This part is very important. A salesman with good service, will help you to make things process smoothly. Also can help you to save money & time.
What do you think?
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November 27, 2014, 5:28 pm
Got a lot of design files, have some problems. Maybe they're not made by ppl who has press experience. Hope below tips may help:
1. Bleeding area. Normally requires 3mm bleeding area on every side.For example, if you want a picture 100mm x 100mm. Then you need to make the picture 106mm x106mm. The bleeding area can't be blank. Need to be a part of the picture.
2. Resolution: offset printing requires a high resolution. Which should be more than 300dpi. So it will be very beautiful and clear when print out.
3. CMYK color mode. Many ppl just send a picture of RGB color mode. Actually, CMYK is the printing color mode. Printer can help to adjust it. But it's better we adjust it by ourself. Cuase we can make a slightly change if we don't like the color.
4. File should be in PDF or AI format. Those two are the most used format.
Others such as send the font as well. Printer won't have all the fonts clients need.
Anything else?
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November 30, 2014, 3:41 pm
We have had our auto for about 3 weeks, and are having trouble with the revolve mode. We are wanting it to print 1, flash 2, print 4, flash 2, print 5...we have spent all day and apparently are doing something wrong. I have read the manual over, and still not right..PLEASE HELP
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December 3, 2014, 9:57 am
M&R is pleased to announce the
Finish First with Kruzer! competition at ISS Long Beach 2015. Eight randomly-selected teams of two (four teams per day) will compete on Friday & Saturday, January 16th & 17th. The team with the fastest assembly time each day will take home a brand new Kruzeror get to apply a credit of $2,995 toward the purchase of any other M&R press. Kruzer can be ordered fully assembled and crated, but most buyers choose to have it shipped disassembled and boxed for onsite assembly. M&Rs Finish First with Kruzer! competition is a chance for teams to win a free manual press by showing just how fast Kruzer assembly can be.
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Learn more about the contest here: ow.ly/FiXag
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December 4, 2014, 7:58 am
I could use some help troubleshooting some problems I am having printing coroplast signs.
Setup:
Screen - 305 mesh, inner dimensions are 76"H x 66"W, print are about 46"H x 46"W
Substrates - 4mm and 10mm coroplast
I can't seem to get the print right. The screen sticks to the coroplast in the middle of the print (does not peel enough) with what should be the proper off-contact (1/32" to 1/4"). If I increase the off-contact, I have to compensate with higher squeegee pressure, yet the top and bottom don't receive the proper print resulting in un-printed lines in the valleys of the coroplast. I am fairly new at this so I'm sure many things could be wrong (improper screen size/print area ratio, wrong off-contact for print size, etc.) Any help is greatly appreciated.
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December 5, 2014, 12:46 pm
On Your Marks...Get Set...Study! If you are planning on entering the Finish First with Kruzer competition at ISS Long Beach in January, head over to M&R's YouTube channel and watch complete Kruzer assembly instructions.#KruzerCompetition ow.ly/Frv5k
Learn more about the competition here: http://ow.ly/FjsvR
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December 6, 2014, 12:20 pm
Just installed our new Starlight and got an "Output Circuit" error message?, Anyone know what this might be? Tried everything I could think of but can't get the unit to work. Got 40 screens I need to expose Monday morning. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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December 6, 2014, 5:10 pm
Has anyone been experiencing static shock to the stackers at the end of the dryer? Have had two people pose the same question to me just this past week. While I realize we have generally lower humidity this time of year am looking for a way to reduce potential static buildup. Any ideas?
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December 8, 2014, 8:38 am
Xenon Christmas Screen Sale
110 White 12 Pack Landed Price with Permanent Blockout Applied to edge of frame
20 x 24 $277.68
23 x 31 $364.08
156 White 12 Pack Landed Price with Permanent Blockout Applied to edge of frame
20 x 24 $288.84
23 x 31 $380.64
196 Dyed 12 Pack Landed Price with Permanent Blockout Applied to edge of frame
20 x 24 $303.60
23 x 31 $402.72
230 Dyed 12 Pack Landed Price with Permanent Blockout Applied to edge of frame
20 x 24 $319.44
23 x 31 $426.84
305 Dyed 12 Pack Landed Price with Permanent Blockout Applied to edge of frame
20 x 24 $338.76
23 x 31 $455.64
Call for more mesh count quotes. This is an all in landed price.
Sonny. 404-895-1796
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December 11, 2014, 12:45 pm
I have a Chameleon 8/8 with side air clamps. All of the knobs are the style with the black round parts your grab to tighten and loosen. I recently had to change the knobs on a few heads that control the left and right adjusting of the head. M&R doesnt seem to sell the black knobs so I just went with the blue knobs....once installed I noticed night and day how much comfortable these new designed blue knobs are. So much so I ordered enough to replace all of the left/right adjusters with the blue knobs.
My question is, can I also replace the black knobs on the side air clamps with these newly designed blue ones? There is a little pad at the bottom of the stem of the knobs on the press right now which looks like the knobs cant be removed. I have not studied these knobs and the pad in detail and i am not in front of my press at the moment...I'm asking this in passing really.....so can these be replaced?
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December 12, 2014, 9:36 am
Need help setting up Print settings for Epson Stylus Pro 4880 Running Wasatch 6.7 and need to get the correct settings to print film positives?
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December 15, 2014, 5:35 pm
I bought a ECMX24 used and I am about to begin the process of replacing all of 10g wiring from the heating elements back to the control board, but before I do that I have some concern that some of the fuses may not be the correct amperage or that they have been moved around. So I'm wondering if anyone has a fuse diagram or layout of placement for my model. I have a found a manual that gives a layout of the fuses but my model seems to be a newer version that has additional fuses which would lead me to believe it is a more updated model then the one that the manual depicts. Here is my serial #089319420E if that helps differentiate.
If nothing else I'm basically looking for a photo like this with at least some writing over each fuse that will outline what each value should be.
20131017_104456.jpg
Thanks in advance!
-Van
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December 16, 2014, 6:52 am
Hello - I have an '09 Diamondback and I'm having an issue with a Head 4 Proximity Error. We swapped the switch from a working head and we get the same problem (the other head is working fine still so it wasn't the switch). After a few phone calls with a tech, I ended the day by moving things around on the terminal block just to see what happens. So I took the black wire that goes into the green terminal block and swapped head 4 and head 3. That just gave me a prox error on head 4 and head 3. I was told to locate a voltage meter and call back into the 24 hour service, but I just get a disconnected tone when I try calling. Anyway, does anyone have any thoughts on this. I have a voltage meter (no idea how to use it, but I've got it). Thank you for your input.
Cory
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December 18, 2014, 1:52 pm
I am looking for some instructions or a video on how to properly set up the revolver program on a 94 era Gauntlet 8-10. Any help is appreciated.
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